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Visit Report: Early Spring Tour of Yamashina, Kyoto – Part One

I visited the area around Ono and Yamashina in Kyoto in late February, early spring. My main purpose was to visit the ‘Spring Special Gokaicho’ held at Zuishin-in from February 17th to March 12th, but I also took the opportunity to explore the surrounding area.

During this excursion, I was able to rediscover the charm of the Yamashina area, scattered with temples and shrines steeped in history. When touring the Yamashina area, I highly recommend considering this as a reference.

Kashu-ji Temple

Kanshu-ji Temple is located about a 5-minute walk west from Ono Station along Daigo Road. It is the head temple of the Yamashina branch of Shingon Buddhism and is said to have been founded around the mid-Heian period, approximately 900 years ago.

On both sides of the road leading to the main gate, beautiful white-walled earthen walls continue. It is said that these white walls represent the prestige of being a head temple. As it is associated with Emperor Daigo, the main gate was adorned with the imperial chrysanthemum crest.

As you enter the precinct, the first building you’ll see is the ‘Shinden’ named ‘Meisho-den.’ The Shinden is considered the most prestigious building on the premises, with a hipped roof and an interior designed in the ‘shoin-zukuri’ style, making it a very splendid structure. It was temporarily used as a school building in the early Meiji period.

Following the guide, you’ll then come across the Shoin (reception hall). Built in the mid-Edo period, this building is also designated as an Important Cultural Property. In the garden visible behind the building, there is a lantern said to have been donated by Mito Komon, so be sure not to miss it.

If you continue walking straight ahead, you will come to the Kannon Hall. Beyond the Kannon Hall is the Himmuro-en Garden, a designated scenic spot in Kyoto that preserves the garden techniques from the Heian period. It is said that in May, lotus flowers and irises create a beautiful scenery there.

Furthermore, the “great blue heron,” which also appears in the recently Academy Award-winning film “How Do You Live?”, had settled in, allowing us to observe it right before our eyes.

Walking towards the left front with Himmuro-en Garden at your back, you’ll reach the main hall located at the farthest point in the precincts. Inside, enshrined is a statue of Senju Kannon Bosatsu, which dates back to the Muromachi period. The building, along with the main hall, was constructed in the mid-Edo period. In addition to this, within the precincts, there are ancient trees such as the 750-year-old Hyakujin, statues of Kobo Daishi, scattered rocks, and other elements that make you feel the breath of history and culture.

Bukko-in

Adjacent to Kashu-ji Temple is Bukko-in Tmple.
Bukko-in Temple, established in 1951 by Jun Kyo-ni, is known as a temple deeply rooted in art and welfare.It was a modest temple, and not many people stopped by, but it had a majestic presence.

Junkyo-Oishi real name was Yone Oishi. At the age of 17, she had both her arms severed in a horrifying incident. Despite losing her arms and being unable to read or write, she displayed indomitable spirit, learning to write characters and mastering the technique of drawing by holding the brush with her mouth.

Her talent eventually flourished, leading her to win awards at the prestigious Japan Fine Arts Exhibition, the largest comprehensive art exhibition in Japan. Furthermore, she became the first Japanese member of the “Association of Artists who Paint with Mouth and Foot.” Despite her own physical limitations, she dedicated herself to assisting people with disabilities and underprivileged children, and until her passing at the age of 80, she devoted herself to such welfare activities.

Miyaji Shrine

A little south of Bukko-in is Miyaji Shrine. It’s a small shrine said to have been established in the early Heian period. I felt it was very well maintained and loved by the local people. It is said to have matchmaking blessings due to its association with the romance of Miyaji-no-resshi and Fujiwara Takatō, as mentioned in the “Konjaku Monogatari.”

Kiriku Hachimangu Shrine

A short distance further south from Miyaji Shrine, you’ll come across a vermilion-painted torii gate standing alone on the road. Just before the main hall, you’ll notice two large sacred arrows, making a striking impression of Kiriku Hachimangu Shrine.

Like Miyaji Shrine, Kiriku Hachimangu Shrine was also founded in the Heian period and served as the guardian shrine of Kennin-ji Temple until the Edo period. The magnificent main hall is said to have been built by a master carpenter who was involved in the construction of Kennin-ji Temple during the mid-Edo period. This building, which effectively reflects the architectural style of Edo, is currently designated as a Tangible Cultural Property by the city of Kyoto.

It’s perhaps the essence of Kyoto that historically significant structures are quietly nestled throughout the city.

The Emperor Daigo Goryozan Koryo

On the other hand, about a 20-minute walk east from Ono Station, there is an oval-shaped imperial mausoleum of Emperor Daigo. It is said to be the only confirmed example of a mausoleum constructed in the mid-Heian period.

Located on the middle slope of a small mountain, its grounds are not visible from here, but it is surrounded by lush trees. The surroundings are a quiet residential area, with houses built right next to it.

Emperor Daigo ascended the throne in the middle of the Heian period, in the year 897 AD, and is known for commissioning the compilation of the “Kokin Wakashu” anthology, among other achievements.

During his reign of 34 years, Emperor Daigo governed without appointing regents or chancellors. The first to be appointed as Minister of the Left and Minister of the Right were Fujiwara no Tokihira and Sugawara no Michizane, respectively. In 901, following Tokihira’s advice, Emperor Daigo transferred Michizane to Dazaifu. However, after a series of disasters occurred, in 923, Michizane’s transfer was revoked, and efforts were made to console his spirit by reinstating him to the position of Minister of the Right.

Summary

This time, we explored the area around Zuishin-in, and it took half a day to thoroughly explore each location. If you’re not used to walking regularly, you’ll get tired quickly. What we discovered during our walk is that the Ono area has many shrines and temples dating back to the Heian period, with strong connections to Emperor Daigo, making it a region steeped in history.

Expansive quiet residential neighborhoods offer a markedly different atmosphere from the bustling streets of central Kyoto. However, this allows for a leisurely exploration, creating a place where one can enjoy a more mature experience.

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2024.03.18

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